In the elusive world of modern fine dining, only a few names hold as much international reverence as Chef Fei. Yet, sitting across the table from him as he shared the humble beginnings of his culinary journey, you would never sense the ego often associated with such a celebrated master of Cantonese cuisine.
The more I got to know him, the more I became at awe of his regal presence.
The 20-Year-Old Executive Chef
After 16-year-old Fei graduated in 1989, he went to Guangzhou from Chaoshan, Guangdong and started his career working in a hotel. Back then, he had a few limited choices—security, service attendant, a cook or a bell boy. Yearning to learn something technical and practical, he chose the kitchen.
In the beginning, he couldn’t say that he loved it but it did help in making ends meet. The process unraveled to be a world of discovery—from being introduced to unfamiliar, seasonal ingredients to learning unique techniques fashioned for each one—that he grew an affinity for it organically.
This, along with his formidable talent and drive propelled him to the rank of an executive chef—at just age 20.
Earning Guangzhou’s First Two Michelin Stars
Fei dedicated his life to learning. Even if he was already on top of his game, he never ceased to engage in trainings and classes to further his knowledge.
“Even if you graduate from a famous college, the certificate is just a piece of paper,” he says. “If make a little bit of money, I would invest it on learning about management or managing big teams [among other things].” That’s what separates him from other chefs.
In 2013, he was invited to join the Mandarin oriental Hotel Group as its culinary director for their properties across Asia. His first flagship was opening Jiang by Chef Wei at Mandarin Oriental Guangzhou. It became the first restaurant in the city to earn two prestigious stars from Michelin—a recognition that would permanently elevate the city’s gastronomic landscape.
Tecochew Cuisine’s Finest
Cantonese cuisine features three distinct branches: Guangzhou (Guangfu), Teochew (Chaozhou), and Dongjiang (Hakka). Of the lot, chef Fei, took a liking and focus on Teochew for deeply personal reasons. He naturally gravitated toward the flavors he enjoyed growing up, particularly the abundant fresh seafood native to his hometown.
That connection to his roots translates beautifully to his menu at Jiang, his signature two Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant. Simmered Mud Carp Soup with Adzuki Beans, Dry Braised Yellow Croaker, Sautéed Sliced Beef with Mint, Hakka Salt-Baked Chicken, Roasted Peking Duck, Stir-Fried Boston Lobster with Perilla Leaf and Black Bean Sauce, and Techoew-Style Boiled Goby Fish with Preserved Mustard—these are just some of the bestsellers people from across continents travel to the Mandarin Oriental Guangzhou for and I had the pleasure of indulging on the night chef Fei personally cooked for our small group.
When Actions Speak Louder Than Words
Amidst all the international acclaim, chef Fei confesses that his true legacy lies not in these awards but in his leadership, helming a troop of over 500 chefs from all over the world. Recently honored with the Michelin Mentor Chef Award, he nurtures and trains the next generation of culinary talents while overseeing a rapidly expanding empire of fine dining concepts in Singapore, Bangkok, Beijing, Shenzhen, and Jakarta (I tried to convince him to open also in Manila.)
Chef Fei may not speak perfect English. The whole two days I spent with him, he had someone assist in translating our conversation. He doesn’t need to say anything at all though to convince me about the caliber of his talent and influential reach. I clearly witnessed it from how interacts with his team, the guests revere him, and how much I enjoyed perhaps the best Chinese menu I ever had the pleasure of eating.
Frequently Asked Questions
Chef Fei is an internationally acclaimed Cantonese culinary master, Culinary Director for Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group across Asia, and winner of the Michelin Mentor Chef Award.
Born in Chaoshan, Guangdong, he became an executive chef at age 20 and later led Jiang by Chef Fei at Mandarin Oriental Guangzhou to earn the city’s first two Michelin stars.
Chef Fei focuses particularly on Teochew (Chaozhou) cuisine. He naturally gravitated toward it because it reflects the flavors and abundant fresh seafood he grew up with in his hometown of Chaoshan
The dishes served at Jiang, his signature two Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant, include the Boneless Crucian Carp Congee. Stir Fried Australian Lobster with Preserved Turnip and Chaozhou Style Satay Sauce, Roasted Peking Duck, and Dry Braised Yellow Croaker, just to name a few.
Chef Fei considers his leadership and mentorship to be his real legacy. Managing a team of over 500 chefs across concepts in Singapore, Bangkok, Beijing, Shenzhen, and Jakarta, he nurtures the next generation of culinary talent, which was an achievement recognized with the Michelin Mentor Chef Award.
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