At the best and worst times of our lives, food is an essential. The demand for it isn’t just because it’s our basic need. Sometimes, we suddenly crave for sinigang or ginataang bilo-bilo just because we want to. And service, indeed, is the heart of the food industry whether for celebrations or during times of crisis—something that Chef JP Anglo lives by whether he’s in Metro Manila or Dubai.
Kooya serving for duty
In 2022, just as the world was slowly beginning to open up again after a global pandemic, Anglo opened his first restaurant outside the Philippines—Kooya. Located in Dubai, the casual restaurant serves traditional yet elevated Filipino cuisine born out of the Negrense chef’s experience and expertise. The menu offers a selection of country classics such as chicken inasal, lumpiang shanghai (served with banana ketchup, of course!), crispy tawilis, champorado and tuyo, and piaya; but there are also creative renditions of familiar flavors such as peach mango pie, pistachio silvanas, crispy pancit canton, and KFC or Kooya fried chicken wings with tamarind, ginger, crab fat, and garlic aioli.
Kooya is almost five years old. When it started, it took space at the Marina. But after three years and a half, they outgrew the space and moved to a food hall, albeit only temporarily as they are currently in transition to moving to a bigger establishment, their flagship restaurant, which will hopefully open towards the end of the year.
With the current Iran-US war putting the United Arab Emirates (UAE), specifically Dubai, under repeated attack, the Filipino restaurant finds itself living in a state of some pandemic deja vu. “It’s half the workforce, half the sales. It’s surviving, but it’s like a different kind of pandemic,” Anglo shares.
The “Kuya” of Kooya also pointed out some other challenges felt by Sarsa’s older sibling. “All the commodities there, they have a cap. So, hindi pwedeng magtaas ng presyo ng karne. Pero syempre, ‘yung rent, ‘yun sales. Hindi siya naba-balance out.”
At the heart of every skilled chef is knowing how to adapt when a recipe or the service goes awry. It’s this, and his understanding of his role as the head of this other home away from home that Chef JP continues to keep Kooya running.
“We still have to go back, because the team is there. We built something there, and it’s home.”
Chef JP Anglo
Cooking and camping in the city
Much like its “older brother,” Sarsa Field Kitchen has grounded itself during today’s trying times. Combining his love for food, overlanding, and community building, Chef JP transformed a space at Overland Kings, into a campsite-themed setting of sorts where food and stories are meant to be presently shared. Guests can also choose to settle in the quaint air-conditioned indoor area, but the true spirit of the field kitchen is in its outdoor setting.
The surge of oil prices was indeed a contributing factor to his decision of bringing the comfort of camping and his restaurant, Sarsa, to an open space in Parañaque. “When you go camping, you drive to places like Tanay. But since mahal ang gas, dito na lang muna tayo sa city. It’s a space where you can bring your family, your friends, or just go by yourself. You can bring your camp chair, sit under a tree, or under a shade or awning, then we serve the food.”
As a father, it was also important for him to let his child, Finn, experience what the world has to offer. “I have a baby, and I enjoy that he’s touching the ground. That he’s feeling it. Sorry, medyo cheesy, pero nare-reconnect tayo ulit sa nature.”
The more playful, adventurous side of the Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant reflects on their selection, too. “We have kaldereta lasagna and longganisa carbonara.” Anglo doesn’t claim them to be a fusion or twist, but they’re rather snacks and small bites that will bring you out of your comfort zone. “There’s buko kaliskis empanada, isaw, barbecue. Kind of bespoke, customized, and free-flowing.” Just the kind of breather that only the comfort of food and nature can bring.
Sarsa Field Kitchen is located at 5245 W Service Rd, Parañaque.
Frequently Asked Questions
Chef JP Anglo is a Filipino chef known for championing elevated Filipino cuisine. He is behind restaurants such as Kooya in Dubai and Sarsa Field Kitchen in Parañaque.
Kooya is Chef JP Anglo’s first restaurant outside the Philippines, opened in Dubai in 2022. It serves traditional Filipino dishes with modern, elevated touches.
Kooya has been affected by regional conflict, reduced workforce, lower sales, rising rent, and capped commodity pricing.
Sarsa Field Kitchen is a campsite-inspired dining concept by Chef JP Anglo that combines food, outdoor culture, and community gathering.
Sarsa Field Kitchen is located at 5245 W Service Rd, Parañaque.
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