Chef Masahiko Kodama is no stranger to the Philippines. He used to fly in for The Counter at Ginza One; now, he seems to have found a place to roost.
The celebrated yakitori chef is back in Manila as the chef-in-residence at Ginza Ortigas, bringing his signature skewers to a setting that is decidedly more relaxed—and, perhaps, more reflective of the relationship he’s built with the country over the years.
For the Ginza Ortigas team, though, his return is rooted in something beyond food.
“Chef Kodama’s return is deeply rooted in his fondness for Filipino culture and the profound warmth he has experienced here,” the team says. His enthusiastic following from his previous stint in the Philippines, along with his close relationship with the Ginza staff, has kept him connected to the country.
In fact, the team describes the Ginza crew as having become “like family” to the chef. That sense of belonging is part of what led him to make a much bigger decision in 2026: to spend his later years—and perhaps eventually settle down—in Manila.
It’s quite the plot twist for a chef whose career has taken him from Tokyo to international recognition, but now, it seems that he’s finally ready to settle in Ortigas.
From the Counter to the Table
Chef Kodama’s new residency is a continuation of sorts of what he started with The Counter at Ginza One, the Makati restaurant that earned him recognition from some of the country’s most respected media outlets.
But if The Counter was intimate, formal, and occasion-worthy, Ginza Ortigas is going for something else.
“This residency is a natural evolution and expansion of the foundation he built at The Counter,” the Ginza team explains.
Here, his cooking is meant to reach a broader crowd, including families and larger groups. So instead of an exclusive counter experience, the goal is to create something less intimidating with food meant to be shared, lingered over, and enjoyed without needing to wait for a special occasion. But this doesn’t equate to Chef Kodama being any less meticulous—his format has simply changed.
“By transitioning to a casual format, we are transforming his cuisine from a rare indulgence into an accessible comfort,” the team says.
In other words, you don’t necessarily need a milestone on the calendar to eat Kodama’s yakitori anymore.
A Little Bit of Everything
That idea came through clearly when I sat down with a small group to try some of Chef Kodama’s most famous dishes.
There’s a little bit of everything: toast paired with pate and fine slices of fruit; a potato salad topped with crisp chicken skin; a rich uni gratin; crunchy salmon uni aburi; the signature yakitori; an off-the-menu liver niira; ramen; and, to finish, a lush egg custard.
One of the standouts for me was the salmon uni aburi. Torched uni and salmon sit atop a crisp sheet of salmon skin, creating a dish that plays with texture as much as it does with flavor. There’s the delicate crunch of the skin, the richness of the uni, and the soft, almost silky salmon underneath. The meat practically melts in the mouth, while the torched surface adds a subtle smokiness that keeps the richness from feeling one-dimensional.
Another highlight was the liver niira, an off-the-menu stir-fry dish that probably deserves a spot on the menu. The liver brings plenty of richness, but it’s balanced by the refreshing mix of bean sprouts, carrots, edamame, and a sauce that tastes like garlic and soy sauce. The vegetables bring freshness and crunch to what could otherwise be an intense dish, making the combination surprisingly moreish.
Then there’s the yakitori platter, which offers something for practically every skewer preference. There are flattened wings, neck meat, the classic thigh, and vegetable skewers, among others. It’s a good reminder that yakitori is about more than just grilling chicken—it’s about making the most of different cuts and textures, each treated with the kind of precision Chef Kodama is known for.
And after a dinner that leans heavily into savory, smoky, and umami-rich flavors, dessert comes as a welcome change of pace.
The egg custard is lush, smooth, and creamy, finished with a citrus syrup that cuts through its richness with a soft, zesty tang. It’s the kind of dessert that feels particularly well placed at the end of this meal, delicate and bright against all that char and smoke with just enough acidity to reset the palate.
A Tokyo-Inspired Lunch, Then Yakitori for the Table
All together, these dishes make Ginza’s new philosophy particularly clear.
From 11 AM to 3 PM, diners can choose from four teishoku sets that all come with starters, sides, a main dish, and dessert—an idea that has roots in the chef’s life in Tokyo, where he prepared high-quality bento boxes for hordes of busy salarymen during lunch.
The Ginza team wanted to recreate that same feeling for Ortigas with satisfying, thoughtfully prepared midday meals that work just as well for the corporate crowd as it does for anyone craving a proper Japanese lunch.
At dinner, meanwhile, the grill takes center stage with the aforementioned yakitori platter. It comes with 15 sticks—two each of Chef Kodama’s chicken skewers plus a vegetable skewer. It’ll also come with a small charcoal grill, so diners can enjoy their skewers warm and charred exactly how they would like.
A New Chapter, Same Kodama
For longtime fans, the new residency offers a chance to reconnect with a chef they already know. Some former regulars have actually been making the trip to Ortigas specifically to have his cooking again.
For everyone else, though, Ginza Ortigas offers a gentler introduction to the world-class cooking of Chef Kodama. And as emphasized by the Ginza Ortigas team, the point is for those guests to leave with the understanding that “expertly crafted Japanese cuisine doesn’t have to be rigid or exclusive—it can [also] be warm, communal, and enjoyed every day.”
And that might honestly be the best way to understand Chef Kodama’s return, because he’s bringing the same discipline and yakitori expertise that earned him recognition worldwide—just in a format that asks diners to loosen up, gather around the table, and simply eat.
Ginza Ortigas is located at GF, Agustin I, F. Ortigas Jr. Rd, San Antonio, Pasig.
Frequently Asked Questions
Chef Masahiko Kodama is a Japanese chef known for his yakitori and meticulous approach to Japanese cooking. He previously worked with The Counter at Ginza One in Makati.
Chef Kodama is currently the chef-in-residence at Ginza Ortigas in Pasig, where he serves Japanese dishes including yakitori and teishoku lunch sets.
Yakitori is Japanese grilled chicken served on skewers. Different parts of the chicken can be used, allowing for a variety of textures and flavors.
The Tokyo-inspired teishoku sets are served from 11 AM to 3 PM at Ginza Ortigas.
The dinner yakitori platter includes 15 sticks, featuring two each of Chef Kodama’s chicken skewers along with vegetable skewers. It is also served with a small charcoal grill for diners to keep the skewers warm.
Ginza Ortigas is located at GF, Agustin I, F. Ortigas Jr. Rd, San Antonio, Pasig.
