For a nation that has an almost religious craving for pork and chicken, I initially deemed it quite bold for chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar of Restaurant Celera to have none of the two proteins in their current menu. But over the course of dinner the other day, I realized that bold might not actually be the right word to describe it. Confident sounds more fitting.
I’ve long been following the trajectory of this duo’s career. Their collective flair for turning buah keluak, masak merah, and mala spices into something palatable has kept me chained to wherever they go. Seeing how far they have come is nothing short of impressive and to witness how they cooked that rainy Wednesday night was genuinely inspiring.
Why Confidence Is Its Secret Ingredient
Their new menu was three months in the making, confesses Santos. It is a repertoire that progressed dish by dish, with iterations made regularly until they reached the point where they were satisfied before letting them leave their Michelin-starred kitchen.
It made a clear and reassuring statement right from the start. Whereas the staid would err on the side of caution—think roast pork and potatoes, or anything wagyu—the brave would dare to play with flavors yet unexplored: a fragile bonito and buckwheat tart cradled a mound of fresh watermelon cushioned on top of tomato gel; a textured oyster mushroom mousse seasoned with garlic snuggled with blueberries under a thick blanket of shaved dark chocolate; and a disc of mango and foie gras was sandwiched in between delicate dill-infused meringue and crowned with nori caviar.
There’s an evident conviction in the way the chefs cooked—and it extended to the servers who proudly explained every dish.
What followed was Celera’s noodle dish, which has since become an iconic signature—the one loyal patrons would protest about if it were ever taken off the menu. It changes by the seasons and for this version, it came as fermented jalapeño noodles with fish collagen drenched in tomato water foam, hebi hiam, and chicken skin crumbs.
Next came a deeply flavored brodo, extracted from smoked bones, accompanied by a soubise egg custard, and topped with an allium foam and a spoonful of double-gold tenderloin. Stirred into the hot broth, the ultra thin beef strip cooked gently in the liquid heat, imparting rich flavor.
A Study in Bold, Unexpected Flavors
I know I have to get passed the two chefs feeding me some of the best Asian dishes my palate has ever had the luxury of tasting. To date, their bebek penyet still haunts me from time to time. And that’s what they’ve been consistently doing ever since they introduced me to Celera.
The 20-day-aged French duck reinforced this for me. Paired with onion and carrot purée, a foam of paitan and brown butter, minced duck leg and coriander sausage, and a duck jus that worked overtime, it was the dish that somehow stood out in a sea of already stellar plates. Perhaps the crispy duck skin gave it the edge.
By that time, I was already full and duly satisfied, amazed even. But the hits still kept on hitting—arborio and heirloom dona-al rice cooked in langoustine cream and finished with jicama and kiniing; a muscat grape granita with sake amazake cream; and a caramel cake with toasted buckwheat, finished with chocolate and tarragon foam.
There was nothing reckless about the menu, nor did any of the dishes feel like they were trying too hard to surprise. Every combination, no matter how unexpected, had intention. There was confidence in the way they brought together ingredients that, on paper, had no business sharing space on a plate—and somehow made them work.
Perhaps that is what Celera has always been about: not simply challenging what we think a dish should be, but trusting that there is always another way to make it sing.
Celera is located at the 3rd floor of Commune, 238 Pablo Ocampo Sr. Extension, Makati.
Frequently Asked Questions
No. Chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar built Restaurant Celera’s current menu without pork or chicken, two proteins widely loved by Filipino diners. Instead, the menu draws on Asian influences and unexpected flavor pairings, featuring dishes such as 20-day-aged French duck.
Restaurant Celera’s 20-day-aged French duck is served with onion and carrot purée, a paitan and brown butter foam, minced duck leg and coriander sausage, and duck jus. It was the reviewer’s standout dish, possibly owing to its crispy duck skin.
Restaurant Celera’s menu draws on Asian flavors, including hebi hiam in its seasonal noodle dish, paitan foam with the duck, and sake amazake cream with a muscat grape granita. The chefs are also known for turning buah keluak, masak merah, and mala spices into approachable dishes.
Restaurant Celera serves arborio and heirloom dona-al rice cooked in langoustine cream and finished with jicama and kiniing. It is one of several courses that followed the duck, alongside a muscat grape granita with sake amazake cream and a caramel cake with toasted buckwheat.
Delish Philippines describes Restaurant Celera’s kitchen, led by chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar, as Michelin-starred. The restaurant is located on the 3rd floor of Commune, 238 Pablo Ocampo Sr. Extension, Makati, and its current menu took three months to develop.
