“There were chickens wandering around, dogs running through the street, scooters passing by, and here I was, sitting on this little stool in the heat, eating this incredible bowl of spicy soup.” Michael Tran, co-owner and creative director of The Lunch Lady reminisces the first time he ate at this humble Vietnamese spot. It was a surreal moment, far different from his usual environment, having been born and raised in Canada, and yet he somehow felt at home.
How Anthony Bourdain Inspired Michael Tran to Visit The Lunch Lady
It was the late Anthony Bourdain who is responsible for introducing him to Saigon’s famous lady back in 2012. He took a mental note of all the places Bourdain ate in in the Vietnam episode of his No Reservations travel show and he promised himself that one day, he would visit the same spots he did.
“The way Anthony spoke about Vietnam really moved me. I grew up in Canada, and watching that episode made me want to reconnect with my roots.”
He timed his visit well. He planned it on a Friday so that he could try the exact same Bún Bò Anthony had. “I remember pulling up this tiny plastic stool on the street. It was probably 33 degrees outside, incredibly hot, and that was the first time I met Cô Thành. I remember how cheerful and kind she was. She was so humble, and I was just genuinely happy to finally meet this woman whose soup Anthony Bourdain had described as ‘pure magic’.”
Apart from the Vietnamese beef and pork noodle soup, The Lunch Lady’s process also intrigued Tran; the same one that lures people to the brand. Thành cooks just one noodle soup each day, a different one for every day of the week. It’s pretty much unheard of as inventory would be tricky.
For Tran, the appeal is partly nostalgia. “In a way, it reminded me of my mom growing up. She was always cooking something different for my brothers and I every day.”
How The Lunch Lady Plans to Make Its Mark on Manila’s Food Scene
The Lunch Lady opened its first international location in Vancouver, Canada in 2020, followed by Toronto five years later. The third outpost is in Manila, which opens on October 29.
“I think Manila has such a diverse and exciting food scene, and there’s a real appreciation here for bold flavors and good food,” claims Filipino Benedict Lim, culinary director and co-owner, on why they decided to bring the brand in. Filipino and Vietnamese cuisines also share a lot of similarities, especially when it comes to balancing flavors and how food brings people together.
Aside from that, he thinks that the Philippines has such an incredible abundance of beautiful produce, seafood, and local ingredients, giving them so much to work with creatively. “What excites me is being able to bring the foundation of what makes The Lunch Lady special while embracing a little of what the Philippines has to offer.”
The company is testing the waters. Being their very first venture in the country, it’s Tran and Lim’s intention for Filipino diners to taste the original flavors, food and hospitality that make who they are, without assuming that the market already knows their story. At the same time, I don’t want Manila to simply be a copy of Vancouver or Toronto.
“I want us to embrace the culture, ingredients, and energy of the city and continue to evolve alongside it. Ultimately, I don’t want The Lunch Lady to just be a restaurant in Manila. I want it to become a restaurant that Manila can call its own,” says Lim.
3 Must-Try Vietnamese Dishes
The introductory menu the week it opens includes Bún Thái (Wednesday), Pho Gà (Thursday), Bún Bò (Friday), Bánh Canh Cua (Saturday), and Mi Vit Tiem (Sunday). But there are menu staples that customers shouldn’t miss too.
Like the Wagyu Beef Carpaccio, which Lim always comes back to. They take Australian Wagyu, give it a quick sear, slice it thinly, and dress it with a super punchy lime vinaigrette. Adding textures are peanuts, crispy shallots, Thai basil, mint, and cilantro. “It’s very fresh, very herb-forward, and to me, it’s one of those quintessential bites that just screams Vietnam,” he says.
Perhaps, the one dish that has become the unofficial barometer in which Vietnamese restaurants are judged by is the phở. The Lunch Lady takes immense pride in theirs.
The broth is a 24-hour process, from soaking and blanching the bones to slowly simmering them for at least 16 hours. To achieve a consommé-like clarity, they skim and tend to it constantly. For a deep beefy flavor and alluring aroma, they rely on oxtail, brisket, and shank, to do the job. For Manila, they also use local Kitayama Wagyu short rib, served raw so you can gently cook it in the hot broth at the table.
Their Crispy Tiger Prawns took much experimentation and refinement to get to where it is now—a must order signature! “Michael and I spent so much time developing this dish back in 2020. We went back and forth, probably argued a little too much over it, but we really wanted to get it right. We partially separate the prawn from its shell and use a very particular battering and frying technique that creates this beautiful, crispy shell that’s completely edible.” It comes with their nước chấm.
Lim adds, “It’s honestly one of those dishes that’s just addictive. And with the quality of prawns we’re getting here in the Philippines, I’m really excited about how this dish will translate to Manila.
The Lunch Lady is equipped with such an inviting array of arsenal that heading back daily doesn’t have to be an option, but a given.
The Lunch Lady is located at 102 Forbestown Road, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.
Frequently Asked Questions
The Lunch Lady is a Vietnamese restaurant inspired by a beloved Saigon street-food stall made famous by Anthony Bourdain, bringing rotating daily noodle soups, signature Vietnamese dishes, and bold flavors to Manila.
The restaurant is co-owned by Michael Tran, who serves as the creative director, and Benedict Lim, who serves as the culinary director.
The Manila location opens on October 29 and is located at 102 Forbestown Road, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.
Notable menu staples include the Wagyu Beef Carpaccio, the 24-hour simmered phở, and the Crispy Tiger Prawns served with nước chấm.
The phở involves a 24-hour process that starts with soaking and blanching bones, followed by simmering them for at least 16 hours while constantly skimming the broth to maintain a consommé-like clarity. For the version to be served in Manila, it incorporates oxtail, brisket, shank, and local Kitayama Wagyu short rib served raw so diners can cook it directly in the hot broth at the table.
Following the original stall’s concept, the restaurant cooks just one noodle soup each day, offering a different variety for every day of the week. For instance, the introductory menu features Bún Thái on Wednesday, Pho Gà on Thursday, Bún Bò on Friday, Bánh Canh Cua on Saturday, and Mi Vit Tiem on Sunday.
